Our Parts Warranty is 90 days. ​ We make every effort to use original parts, from original manufacturers, in the repair of your appliances. If original parts are no longer available, all substitution parts are of equal or superior quality to the original parts. All of the parts come from trusted and vetted suppliers, who are themselves authorized by the original manufacturers. ​ Our warranty only applies to parts listed on the invoice, and we cannot warranty any parts or components other than those we repaired or replaced. If during the 90 day warranty period, a part we replaced fails, we will replace the part under warranty at no cost to you. ​ Our Labor Warranty is 90 days. ​ We make every effort to ensure that work performed is of the highest quality, and we stand behind our work. The Labor Warranty applies to any work or service performed on your appliance, but only covers Labor as it pertains to the repairs performed. ​ If you believe that a component repaired or replaced on you appliance has failed within the Warranty period, please contact us immediately. We will schedule a time to have a technician come back out to inspect, and if necessary, repair any failed component under warranty. If the problem you're experiencing is unrelated to the previous repairs, a new repair estimate will be provided to repair the most current issue. Should you decide not to proceed with the new repairs, a Service Call Fee will be due.

We do. The Service Call Fee is a diagnostic fee. A technician will come out to your location, diagnose the issue with your appliance, and provide you with a repair estimate. Should you decide to proceed with the repair, you will not be charged a Service Call Fee; it is waived if you decide to proceed with the repair. You would only be charged the cost of the repair which can include parts, if necessary, plus tax and labor.

Absolutely. We are happy to provide you with a ball park range of what the repair may cost given the symptoms you're experiencing. Please understand however, that not having seen the appliance firsthand, we cannot offer any guarantees as to the accuracy of the diagnosis, or what it may cost to complete the repairs. In many cases, the symptoms you are experiencing may be due to several components, all of which, or some of which may be causing the problem. Without on-site testing, we cannot determine which is the root cause. ​ If, for example, you would like to replace the door gasket on your front loading washing machine, and you provide us with the model number, we would be happy to get back to you with the total cost of the repair including parts, tax and labor. In this case, there is no problem to diagnose, and we can provide an exact price for repair.

We do not have an hourly labor rate. Our labor costs are calculated based on the project and the amount of work necessary to complete the repair of your appliance. ​ For example, two front loading washing machines require the replacement of the drain pump. One unit has a removable kick panel below the door allowing for access to the drain pump and related components. The second unit has a dryer stacked on top of the washer, and has no access panel below the door. The second unit would be more expensive to repair because first, the dryer needs to be removed from the top of the washer, and second, the entire front of the washer needs to be disassembled to gain access to the drain pump and related components.

As we mentioned above, our rates are based on the project and the amount of work necessary to complete the repair of your appliance, rather than a specific time frame. Some technicians work faster than others, and are able to complete certain tasks with exceptional speed while maintaining the highest levels of professionalism, attention to detail, accuracy and cleanliness. Others, are able to maintain the same levels of professionalism, attention to detail, accuracy and cleanliness, but work slightly... less efficiently. The amount of work needed to complete the repair is the same in both cases, however, the amount of time required is largely dependent on the individual technician. Our technicians are all exceptionally knowledgeable and experienced, but unfortunately, we cannot teach expeditiousness, and we certainly don't want to encourage hurriedness.

Maybe, but we can't really answer that question. In recent history, certain appliances have gotten cheaper, whereas others have gone up in price. We can provide you with a repair estimate, and give you our opinion as to the reliability of similar units. In situations where we believe it may not be worth repairing you appliance, we will tell you, however, our opinion is just that. ​ Fo example, you have a counter top microwave that is no longer heating. The main heating element (magnetron) needs to be replaced. We have the parts and can complete the repair immediately, but the repair cost of the unit is equal to or exceeds the replacement cost. While we can repair the unit, it probably is not worth repairing given that the a small replacement can be purchased for slightly more than our Service Call Fee. Moreover, we would recommend replacing the unit rather than scheduling a Service Call when you contact us.

Good question. Generally speaking, allowing for the differences in design from unit to unit, this scenario is almost always caused by a problem with the exhaust vent. The exhaust vent could simply be clogged with years of lint and dirt, be damaged, or collapsed. We recommend having the dryer exhaust vent professionally cleaned every 3-5 years depending on usage, especially if the vent duct is particularly lengthy, or runs to the roof or under the home. Simply put, if you can’t remember the last time the vent was cleaned, it’s been too long. This problem generally doesn’t happen overnight, but gradually gets worse. In other words, the dryer would dry your clothes consistently, regardless of load size, in 40 minutes, then 50 minutes, but now it takes 60 minutes, and seems to take longer and longer. There are always other possible causes, but we would always start by inspecting the vent. As an example, we had a Customer that bought a new dryer approximately 15 months before we were contacted. Everything was working fine, and then one day it started taking hours to dry. After initially looking for a problem with her unit, because of the sudden rather than gradual change, we found no problem with the unit. As it turned out, her unit vented to the front of her garage in the townhouse complex. The HOA of the building had recently decided that they wanted to repaint the buildings. The company that performed the work didn’t take any precautions because they simply painted over her vent flapper on the exterior wall, which after the paint dried, was sealed shut. Since the unit could only exhaust air through the various cracks around vent flapper, it would shut off the heat after 15-20 seconds resulting in the extremely poor performance. Once the paint was scraped away, and the flapper started working properly, the unit coughed out a small grocery bag of lint, and went back to operating as expected. Ultimately, the problem with the unit, was a clogged vent line.

Well, the short answer is: because something is burning. What is there to burn in a dryer? Unfortunately, there are a number of things that can burn, but most commonly the lint that has built up in the dryer over the years is burning. This can be related to a partially clogged vent, but usually it is a result of years of use without maintenance. Some dryers are designed to be serviced by the owner, while others require professional service. The user manual of the dryer will usually indicate if it can be serviced without need of a professional. In some cases, the burning smell can be the result of a slipping belt, or an electrical component as well, although these tend to be less common.

There is probably an issue with the heating system of the unit. Regardless of whether the unit is gas or electric, if the unit detects that the internal temperature has exceeded the factory preset norm, it will cut-off the units ability to heat by triggering the safety device. Sometimes this is because the unit cannot exhaust enough hot air due to an obstruction in the exhaust vent, sometimes it’s due to normal wear and tear. It can also be the result of an issue with the heating element in electric dryers or some component related to the gas heating system in a gas dryer, and less frequently, due to a problem with the controller of the unit, be it a timer or electronic control. In any case, these components are not designed to be owner serviceable, and we would need to come out to diagnose the root cause of the problem.

Maybe. The answer to this question depends on the design of your dryer. If the unit was not designed from the factory with this ability, it cannot be changed. In many cases, possibly even most cases, the factory has designed in the ability for doors to be changed from right to left opening or vise versa. In many cases, we can determine if this can be done through the model and serial numbers, and a little bit of research. If this information is not available, we would need to schedule a Service Call to come out and inspect the unit.

This is a somewhat difficult question to answer. Given the wide range of designs, it is impossible to give an overarching answer that would encompass all dryers. The possible causes run the gamut and include a problem with the drive motor, the belt, physical damage, or a pair of errant underwear. Overloading the unit can also sometimes cause this issue. In order for us to determine the root cause of the problem, we would need to schedule a Service Call.

This is one of the symptoms where we need more information. Is the unit receiving power? Have you tried plugging it into a different outlet, preferably in a different room? Does the unit make any kind of sounds/noises? If there is a light in the unit, does it turn on? With this type of problem, there are a lot of possible causes. It could be the start button (if equipped), it could be the timer or electronic control, it could be a safety device that has been triggered preventing the unit from starting, or something related to the motor. Unfortunately, in these types of situations, without seeing the unit firsthand, we would only be guessing. In these types of situations, we assume that the the door is closed tightly, without anything preventing the door from closing properly. We recommend making certain there isn’t anything stuck around the front or back edge of the tub that may be creating additional friction. Depending on the design of the unit, if there is a filter screen, remove the screen and make certain there isn’t anything you can see inside the screen housing, like an errant sock, that may be preventing the unit from starting. If there is nothing obviously wrong with the unit, please contact us to schedule a Service Call.

The squeak. The most inevitable, and generally unavoidable problem faced by all dryers of a certain age (and some not of a certain age). For the most part, all dryers have some form of wheel inside of them, some more than others. If the dryer is running, the wheels inside are wearing, and as they wear, they begin to squeak, squeal, hiss, rattle, vibrate or worse. This is probably one of the most common problems with dryers across all brands and manufacturers. So common are these problems, that if you were to tell us the brand and model of dryer you have, we would be able to tell you with a fair bit of certainty which wheel is likely to be the culprit, so long as you don’t hold us to it, having not seen the unit firsthand. In general, the best solution in these cases is to replace the damaged wheel. This is based on experience, and nothing else. Cleaning, and lubricating only serves to “kick the can down the road”, as it were. For the most part, the wheels in your dryer get clogged with lint, dirt, hair, or debris, which creates additional friction which you hear in the form of sound. It also generally damages the surface on which the wheels turn. This surface is designed to be smooth, both on the shaft and inside the wheel hub. Most commonly the additional wear is not on the shaft but inside the wheel hub. As such, even if you were to clean and polish the shaft, and visually clean and polish the wheel hub, chances are that the wheel hub is no longer perfect. This can create additional problems such as accelerated wear, rattling, or vibration. Basically, the problem will return, sometimes immediately, sometimes in a manner of days or weeks. Using lubricants only serves to cause the problem to return more quickly, as lint, dirt and debris tend to stick to them.

Chances are there is an issue with airflow. Usually this is a problem with an obstructed, partially obstructed, clogged or damaged exhaust vent. Essentially, the sweating, or moisture around the door is an indication that the air circulation has been disrupted. Instead of exhausting the hot moist air created while your clothes are drying, it is remaining inside the dryer, essentially turning it into a sauna. This symptom usually occurs in conjunction with other symptoms, all of which result in poor drying performance. The first step is to check to make sure the vent flap on the exterior wall is not obstructed, blocked or otherwise damaged preventing it from operating correctly. The next step is to clean out any obstructions in the exhaust vent line. This may require professional cleaning if the vent line is particularly long, runs to the roof, or underneath your home. If the problem is not resolved once the exhaust vent has been cleaned/cleared, there may be an issue with the unit itself, and would require a Service Call.

Ah, lint, the eternal adversary of the dryer. The dryers job is to dryer your clothes but also to remove all of the lint that has accumulated on your clothing as part of the washing process. If there is lint accumulating inside the dryer, chances are that there is not sufficient air flow allowing the dryer to exhaust the lint and hot air. This could be related to an obstructed, partially obstructed, clogged or damaged exhaust vent line. When was the last time you had the exhaust vent cleaned/cleared? If you can’t remember the last time, it has probably been too long. Also check to make sure that the vent flap on the exterior wall is operating properly and is not blocked, or broken preventing it from opening and closing properly. Are you cleaning the lint screen every time you use the dryer? If the lint screen is clogged, it can cause an excess build up of lint around the door and lint screen area. In some cases, the lint screen can get caked with residue, or fabric softener, decreasing the size of the holes in the screen and creating a lint buildup that would otherwise have been exhausted. Most lint screens can be washed with soapy water, but must be 100% dry before being used again. The user manual for your dryer will have information about how the manufacturer recommends cleaning the lint screen.

Well, there are a number of possible causes, however, there are a few things to check prior to calling for service. Prior to checking any of the following, the washer should be unplugged for safety. Is the water supply to the washer turned on? Make certain that the water valves for both hot and cold water are in the open position. Is the water actually flowing? Close the water supply to the unit, and disconnect the water lines from the back of the unit. Using a bucket or something to catch the water, direct the water hose into the bucket and open the water valve to make certain water is flowing. On many washers, there are screens inside the fill valve which may be clogged. With the hoses off, you should be able to see the screens, and if clogged, they should be cleaned. Please refer to the owner’s manual for your unit for cleaning instructions.

The answer depends largely on the type of washer you have; front loading or top loading. Many have similar systems regardless of the type, but functionally are slightly different. On a top loading unit, if the washer cannot sense that the lid is closed, it will not start the washing process but will usually fill with water. This may indicate a problem with the locking mechanism or lid sensor. Some of these components are magnetic, some use plungers, and some use mechanically actuated switches. In some cases pushing the lid closed firmly may, at least temporarily, resolve the issue. In any case, we would recommend trying this: unplug the unit for a minute, and once plugged back in, make certain the lid is closed and restart the cycle. The unit should restart the cycle. Please allow 30 seconds for the unit to start washing after the water has stopped filling. If the problem reoccurs, we’re here to help. On almost all front loading units, there is a similar system. If the unit cannot detect that the door is closed, and locked, it will not start the cycle, although in most cases, front loading units will not fill water either. If a front loading unit fills, but does not wash, it is usually an indication of a motor or electronic fault. Sometimes, reseting the unit as outlined above may resolve the issue, and is always a good first step. If either style of unit displays an error code, record it. This information helps guide the technician to a resolution of your issue, and in some cases, would even allow us to provide you information about repairs and cost without the need to see the unit.

Generally, this is an indication of a mechanical failure. On top loading units, the symptoms are usually the tub filling with water, sometimes over the course of a number of days, and sometimes more quickly but can also include water collecting underneath the unit, on the floor, or behind the unit. On front loading units, depending on the design of the unit, the symptoms are very similar, although generally front loading units will leak, rather than fill with water. The cause of these symptoms, almost always, is due to a mechanical failure in the water valve. Washers, regardless of style have electromagnetically actuated water valves. Sometimes these solenoids fail to close 100% of the way, and so water continues to flow even though the unit believes the valve to be closed. In other cases, the body of the solenoid cracks, or due to age or use the seals start to leak. There is always the possibility of an error in the controls of the unit, but these problems tend to be less common. If your unit starts to exhibit these symptoms, for safety, close the water valves on the side of the house to prevent water from flowing to the unit. This will prevent leaks, or the unit from filling with water while awaiting your Service appointment.

We’ll separate this into top loading washers, and front loading washers. The results are largely similar, but the causes, and solutions are slightly different. On top loading units, we’ll start with the simplest cause and solution. Did you open the lid? Certain top loading washers do not lock the lid, but are designed to stop/pause if the lid is opened. The unit should resume the cycle once the lid is closed, or in some cases, once the lid is closed and the start button is pressed. In all cases, however, the drain pump is supposed to operate at the same time as the unit spins. Some units have a separate drain pump, whereas others, have a drain pump operated by the same motor that turns the drum. In the latter example, if the drain pump is stuck or doesn’t operate, the unit will not spin. In the former example, if the unit doesn’t drain water, it will not even attempt to spin. On units equipped with lid locks, if the unit cannot engage the lock, or the lock is not functioning, the unit will not spin. Less commonly there may be a problem with the motor, or electronic control board. Generally speaking, the first thing is to make sure there isn’t anything blocking or obstructing the closing of the lid, and to make certain there isn’t anything in the way of the lid lock, if equipped. Assuming there are no obstructions, you can also try unplugging the unit for 2 minutes. Once the unit is plugged back in, set the unit to a “Spin Only” or “Drain & Spin” cycle. If the unit completes the cycle, hopefully the problem has been resolved. As an aside, for the purposes of this FAQ, we assumed that the unit does not spin at all, however, if the unit is off balance, it will try to spin but in some cases, will not be able to complete the spin portion of the cycle. Making certain the unit is firmly positioned on the floor, and balanced will assure that if the unit is spinning but not completing the spin portion of the cycle, it has the best opportunity to do so. Additionally, running the unit empty (without clothing) on a “Drain & Spin” or “Spin Only” cycle will tell you if the unit has an issue, or if it may have simply been unbalanced. On front loading units, the causes are a little different, but the results are the same. The differences are largely due to the design of the units. Front loading units always lock the door. If the unit cannot lock the door, it will, in almost all cases, not fill, drain, agitate or spin. With front loading units, the unit will not spin if it cannot drain, just like top loading units. On front loading units, issues with drain pumps are the most common cause for why the unit does not spin, although issues with electronic control boards or motors are more common than on their top loading brethren. Again, generally speaking, on front loading units the first thing to try is cleaning the drain filter, if user serviceable, by following the instructions in the user manual. Assuming the drain pump isn’t the cause of the symptoms, or the drain filter is clean, you can try unplugging the unit for 2 minutes and once plugged back in, attempt to run the unit empty on a “Spin Only” or “Drain & Spin” cycle. If the unit completes the cycle successfully, there is a chance the unit, or more likely, the load was simply out of balance. If the tub does not turn at all, there is a reasonable chance that there is a problem with an electronic component or the motor. Please take note of any error codes that the unit may display.

There are two types of washer designs, as we’re sure you’re aware, and the causes for the units not draining are similar but not identical. On top loading units, if the lid is open, or the unit “thinks” the lid is open, it will not drain, but it also won’t spin. If something has made its way into the drain pump, and caused it to get blocked, the unit will not drain, but usually will make an unusual sound. More commonly, the drain pump itself is the root cause of the symptoms. In some relatively rare situations, there may be a kink or clog in the drain hose, and it is always a good idea to check to make sure the hose is not obstructed, or kinked. Unfortunately, other than running the unit empty on a “Spin Only” or “Drain & Spin” cycle to see if the unit drains, there really isn’t anything else that can be done. On front loading units, if the unit is not draining, there are a few possible causes. If the unit cannot lock the door, it may not activate the drain function, but in those cases, it generally will not perform any function. In some cases, a front loading unit may not be draining because of a clog in the drain filter. Some units have a user serviceable drain filter, and can be opened for cleaning. The instructions for this procedure are always outlined in the user manual for the washer. If the drain filter is clean, and the unit is not draining, there may be a problem with the drain pump itself. On front loading units it is also a good idea to check to make certain there aren’t any obstructions in the drain hose leading to the drain, and making certain the hose isn’t twisted or otherwise blocked.

This really depends on the type of unit you have, and how its designed. Most frequently this happens because the unit is overloaded, or loaded incorrectly. This can also be caused because the unit is off balance, or out of balance. In most cases, the unit can be off balance because it is sitting on an uneven surface, or needs to have the feet adjusted. There may also be a problem with the shocks, or suspension in the unit, although this is relatively uncommon. Most modern units have the ability to detect the size of the load, as well as distribute the load, to the best of their ability, to prevent it from going off balance. In most cases, they can compensate for approximately 3-5 pounds, but if the load is more off balance than the units ability to compensate, the unit will pause trying to spin, and try to readjust the load. In most cases, the unit will readjust, and start attempting to spin again. This may happen more than once per cycle, and is considered normal operation. Until the unit reaches the maximum number of attempts programmed into it, the unit will continue readjusting and spinning. In some cases, the unit may start spinning before all the water has been drained out. In these situations, the unit may pause spinning to complete the draining process, and should resume once the unit has finished draining. Most modern units drain in conjunction with spinning, so if the draining process is taking longer than normal, the unit may pause and resume draining and spinning until the proper balance has been reached. This is also considered normal.

How wet your clothes are at the end of the cycle are largely dependent on the spin speed. On a normal cycle, washer attempt to spin your clothes at the maximum speed. The spin speed is generally also selectable and a slower spin speed may be selected. At a lower spin speed, less water is extracted and may account for why the clothes still feel wet at the end of a cycle. Certain cycles are preprogrammed at lower spin speeds on many units, such as “Delicate” or “Heavy” cycles. While this varies by manufacturer and unit, this may account for why the clothes remain wet at the end of a cycle. The other possibility is that the unit was unable to complete the spin cycle for some reason. There may be a problem with the load, or there may be a problem with the unit. If the load was unbalanced, and the unit was unable to complete the entire spin cycle, it may not display an error code, and will simply stop. Running a separate “Spin” or “Drain & Spin” cycle should spin the clothes until they have been rung out. Reducing the size of the load, or redistributing the load may help the unit complete the spin cycle.

This problems varies between slight vibration to moves itself across the floor, with various levels in between. Fortunately, this issue generally has a simple solution and is not necessarily indicative of a problem with the unit itself. This first thing is to make certain that the unit is level, and has all four feet firmly planted on the floor. If one or more of the feet are not firmly planted, the unit can vibrate excessively and in severe cases move around during the wash cycle. If the unit is sitting on an uneven floor, it should be repositioned until all the feet are planted. The feet are always adjustable, although the means through which they adjust, varies by manufacturer and unit. The process is always explained in the user manual for the unit. Please remember that the longer the feet are extended, the more unstable the unit becomes. If the load in the unit is too large, or unbalanced, it can exacerbate the issue. Sometimes, stopping the unit and manually readjusting the load can resolve the issue, allowing the unit to complete the cycle.

If your washer is leaking, unfortunately, there aren’t a lot of choices. We can provide you with several possible causes, but if the leak is consistent, there is likely no way to avoid a need for Service. Leaks can be caused by a few different things but generally fall into one of 3 categories; a leaking water valve, a leaking hose, or a failed seal somewhere. If the unit is filling with water when turned “Off”, all you can do is shut off the water supply to the unit, and call for service. There are a few things to check and take note of prior to calling for Service. If water is collecting behind the unit, double check the supply hoses, and make certain that they are securely fastened. If one of the hoses is loose, it can leak water, and would leak whether the unit is running, or not. If you only notice water only when the unit is running, and it appears to be coming from the back, there may be a problem with the drain pipe. A common indication would be water streaks running down the wall because the drain pipe is overflowing. Specifically relating to front loading washers, the gasket for the door is a relatively common source of problems across all brands. If the gasket is old, torn or deformed, or there is a buildup of dirt preventing the door from sealing 100% it may leak from between the door and gasket. This is usually evidenced by streaks of dirt or water running down the front of unit. On front loading units that have a user serviceable drain filter, if the filter is not seated correctly, or is not tightened all the way, it may also leak. On top loading units, the most common problems for leaks are due to a punctured hose, with water inlet valve assemblies being a relatively close second place. Other causes include a tub that for some reason is off center causing water to miss the tub when filling, or less commonly, a leaking tub seal. It is pretty uncommon for water to splash out of the tub during a cycle, although it does happen when the unit overfills.

Unfortunately, most modern washers are essentially computers that happen to wash clothes. If for some reason the controls of your unit stop responding, the lights are flashing in an unexpected manner, or the unit simply paused for an extended period of time, there may be an issue with the electronics. There is always the possibility that you may have happened upon the unit during a normal middle of the cycle pause, but if after a few minutes the unit continues to sit without any action, it may have had a glitch. Assuming that there wasn’t a power outage during the cycle, or some other interruption of power to the unit, the only thing to do is to reset the unit. This can be done by unplugging the unit for 2 minutes, or alternatively, flipping the breaker for the washer. Once power is restored, select a new cycle, and restart the unit. Assuming that the fault was temporary, it should have been reset and the unit will go back to functioning as expected. Should the problem reoccur, Service will be required.

If there’s a strange smell coming from the washer there may be some residue building up in the unit. Every manufacturer has their own solution to this problem that is outlined in the user manual for the unit. Generally speaking, it involved cleaning the dispenser for the unit, cleaning the drain filter (if equipped), and running the unit through a “Cleaning” cycle. In many cases the manufacturer recommends using a specific washer cleaner such as Affresh or Glisten along with a cleaning cycle. This is designed to dislodge any gunk that may have built up in the bowels of the unit, and resolve the issue with the smell. In all cases, regardless of whether the unit is top loading or front loading, it is recommended that the door or lid be left open to help prevent smells, growths and mold.

Sound is a subjective thing, so we’ll change this to unexpected or unusual. Generally speaking, in order for us to provide information, we would need to know when the sound occurs; the beginning of the cycle, the end of the cycle, somewhere in the middle, only when spinning, etc. In addition to when, we would need to know what type or what it sounds like; grinding, squeaking, hissing, buzzing, etc. For example, a top loading unit makes a grinding sound when it starts agitating that continues until the unit goes into the spin portion of the cycle. What can it be? If the unit is designed with a transmission, that is the likely cause. If the unit doesn’t have a transmission, it could be stopped gear teeth on the shaft, or stripped teeth on the agitator or wash plate. Unfortunately, without inspecting it, we can’t be certain. As an example for front loading units, if the unit is absolutely fine until it reaches the spin cycle and then begins making a sound akin to a jet engine starting up, we can be pretty certain there is a problem with the main bearing. If, however, the unit makes a rubbing or grinding sound during washing that goes away during spin, there might be a problem with the load, or the tub itself. Maybe it is rubbing against the gasket, or the inner tub is rubbing against the outer tub, there is no way for us to know not having seen the unit firsthand. Noises resulting from improper loading, or use, often go away when the unit is empty. That doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t a problem. It is also true that the unit may not have a problem until there is a load inside of it, even though the load is a proper size. Given the subjective nature of noises, and the various possible causes, the best recommendation that we can give you is simple, if it sounds out of the ordinary, and happens more than once, it’s probably out of the ordinary and should be checked.